Making your car’s windows tinted is a simple yet effective approach to update its appearance. There are ways to save hundreds of dollars if you’re willing to put in the time and effort to do it yourself. In some states, window tinting is not permitted on certain windows, so it is crucial to check with your state’s laws before getting started. Then, how difficult is it to put on window tinting, and is it worth the time and money invested? We’ll go over everything you need to know about window tinting in this article.
Pre-Cut or Self-Cut?
If you’ve never tinted windows before, it’s highly recommended that you get a kit that includes everything you’ll need pre-cut. However, doing your own cutting takes practice and you are unlikely to do it properly on the first try, especially because there is a plethora of methods available. As opposed to DIY kits that may not be particular to your car’s make, model, or year, pre-cut kits come with pre-cut pieces that are guaranteed to fit your vehicle’s windows precisely. At least 80% of the job is cutting the tint film to size, and no matter how carefully you apply the film, you will not obtain a professional-looking outcome if it is not cut properly.
In order to ready the Windows
Preparing the windows is critical, regardless of whether you use a pre-cut kit or do the cutting yourself. With the correct window cleaning solution, and a rubber squeegee, you can ensure that all the dirt and grime is removed. Make sure you clean your windows twice or even three times to get the greatest results. Do not use vinegar or ammonia-based cleaners because they can harm the film. To prevent the transfer of debris, dust, and grime, make sure to wipe the rubbers that hold the windows in place. It is impossible to erase bubbles in the film if even the least piece of dirt is present on the glass.
Avoid using the window as a template if you’re doing this for the first time. Instead, create a template for each window out of a piece of cardboard. Using this method, you won’t have to worry about wasting any film. Remember to add around three quarters of an inch below the rubber seal and roughly a quarter of an inch on the sides and top of the template to ensure that the seals are well covered. If your first attempt fails, simply start over. To ensure that the cut film exactly follows the template’s shape, place the template and the film on a hard surface before cutting the edges using a sharp Exacta or similar knife. Double-check the film’s fit by putting it over the window’s inside. Now you have a shape that will fit the window. Make any necessary film trimmings with your assistant holding the film in place, but be sure to cut straight into the corners in order to avoid leaving gaps between your rubber seals and your film. It is important to remember that the tint film is applied to windows from the inside out, so be sure to ensure that the film is properly positioned before installing it.
How the Film Is Being Used
Apply a generous amount of application solution using a squeeze, or trigger spray bottle, and peel the protective layer off the tint film, as well as spray the exposed adhesive. Now it’s time for the exciting part:
Start at the bottom edge of the window and work your way up the adhesive side of the film with the assistance of your assistant. As you make your way higher, be careful not to create any creases or bubbles, and avoid pressing too hard because the glue is pressure-sensitive. At this point, if you apply too much pressure, the film will adhere to the window and you’ll have to start all over again.
Use a rubber squeegee to firmly press the film onto the glass, starting in the middle and going outwards until you are happy that the film is in place. A trigger spray bottle with a few drops of chemical-free dish-washing liquid in it is a suitable answer for wetting the outside surface of the film, and while there are many solutions that work for this, it is a good idea to use a few drops of the liquid in a pint or so of water.
Avoid pressing too hard or switching directions mid-squeegee stroke in order to avoid squeezing out air bubbles and application solution under the film. Remind yourself of this: Even though the film has not yet completely bonded to the glass, it will continue to progressively adhere as the solution is removed from beneath it. Use a bit of a second squeegee to ensure that the film adheres to the window’s corners and edges if you can’t reach them otherwise.
Remove bubbles and application solution one by one, and when all of them have been worked out, you should have a tightly bonded film on the glass with no wrinkles, no trapped air, no gaps around the edges.
To clean or roll up or down your windows, wait at least 48 hours for the glue to dry.